Do I Need a Jointer If I Already Own a Planer?
If you have a thickness planer, you may still need a jointer to flatten a face or straighten an edge. A planer makes the opposite face parallel to its reference face, so it cannot reliably flatten a twisted board by itself.
On this page (10 sections)
- Do I need a jointer if I have a planer?
- What does each machine do to a board?
- Why can’t a planer flatten every warped board?
- Can a planer sled replace a jointer?
- When does a jointer make sense for a home shop?
- Which jointer size suits your boards?
- How should you set up and use a jointer?
- What mistakes lead to poor results?
- Should you buy a jointer or planer first?
- Final decision: do I need a jointer if I have a planer?
If you have a planer, you may still need a jointer when your boards start twisted, cupped, or bowed. The question “do I need a jointer if I have a planer” comes down to whether your stock already has a flat reference face and a straight edge.
A jointer creates those reference surfaces. A thickness planer makes the opposite face parallel to the face resting on its bed and brings the board to a consistent thickness.
If you mostly use surfaced lumber, the planer may cover your needs; if you routinely start with rough stock, a jointer can save repeated setup.
Do I need a jointer if I have a planer?
You need a jointer when rough, uneven lumber is a regular part of your projects. It gives you a flat face to place against the planer bed and can straighten an edge before you rip the board to width.
A planer alone is enough when your boards already have a flat face or you can support occasional uneven pieces on a stable sled. If you buy wood close to its final thickness, a jointer may take up space without solving a frequent problem.
Start by looking at the wood you actually use. Our guide to what a thickness planer does explains how a planer handles thickness and parallel faces.
What does each machine do to a board?
A jointer makes a face flat and an edge straight; a planer makes faces parallel and controls thickness. They handle different steps, so the planer cannot automatically replace the jointer.
On a jointer, the board passes over the cutterhead to remove high spots from one face. That flat face can then rest on the planer bed while the planer cuts the opposite face to a consistent thickness.
You can also run an edge against the jointer fence to straighten it. Neither machine replaces a table saw when you need to rip a board to width.
For the full sequence from a flat face to parallel edges, the article on safe jointer use covers the habits that matter.
Why can’t a planer flatten every warped board?
A planer follows the surface supported by its bed, so it can preserve a board’s twist or bow. Feed rollers may press an uneven board down during the cut, then the board can spring back after it leaves the machine.
The result may be a thinner board that is still uneven. A planer makes the top face parallel to the surface supporting the bottom; it does not find a flat surface on its own.
That is why a flat reference face matters. A jointer can make one directly, while a planer sled can hold a board in position for an occasional flattening job.
Can a planer sled replace a jointer?
A planer sled can flatten a few uneven boards without a jointer, but it adds setup and takes space in the planer. It supports the board so the planer can cut a new flat face.
Secure the board so it cannot rock, and shim any gaps or low spots. Once the first face is flat, remove the sled and plane the other face to make it parallel.
A sled makes sense for occasional pieces or a shop that cannot fit another machine. It becomes less appealing when every project starts with warped stock or when the boards are awkward to secure.
See how a planer sled flattens boards for the process and tradeoffs.

A 13-inch planer with a material-removal gauge for thicknessing boards after you establish a flat reference face.
See it on AmazonThe WEN PL1326 has a 13-inch cutting width and a spiral cutterhead with 26 staggered HSS blades. Its material-removal gauge helps you check how much material each pass removes.
When does a jointer make sense for a home shop?
A jointer makes sense when flattening faces and straightening edges are routine steps, not occasional exceptions. It gives you a direct way to prepare reference surfaces instead of repeatedly shimming and securing boards on a sled.
Skip it if your lumber is already surfaced, your pieces are short and flat, or sled setup is rare and manageable. Also consider the room needed to support and control boards as they enter and leave the machine.
For a broader view of shop space and machine roles, read which benchtop woodworking tools a home shop needs. A jointer belongs in the plan when you have regular stock-preparation work and a safe place to use it.
Which jointer size suits your boards?
Choose a jointer by the width of your typical boards and the support you need around the machine. A wider cutter accepts broader stock, while longer tables and extensions help support longer workpieces.
The WEN JT3062 has a 6-inch cutting width and a 30-by-6-3/16-inch table. It removes up to 1/8 in per pass, and its fence bevels up to 45 degrees.

A 6-inch benchtop jointer for flattening and edge-jointing narrower boards.
See it on AmazonThe WEN JT833H has an 8-inch cutting width, a 33-by-8-inch table, and support arms that extend up to 51 in. Its spiral cutterhead uses 16 staggered HSS blades, and its fence also bevels up to 45 degrees.

An 8-inch jointer with extendable support for wider or longer workpieces.
See it on AmazonPick the 6-inch model if your boards fit its width and a smaller table suits your shop. The 8-inch model is a better match for wider stock or longer workpieces that benefit from its support arms.
Both are benchtop machines, so plan for a stable work surface and enough room to feed boards safely.
How should you set up and use a jointer?
Set the jointer on a stable surface and leave room to guide each board through the cut. Check that the fence and tables are positioned for the work, connect dust collection if available, and keep the blade guard in place.
Use the supplied push blocks to control the board while keeping your hands away from the cutterhead. Take a light pass when you are learning the machine or removing a small amount, and keep the board firmly against the table and fence.
Joint one face first, then use that face as the planer reference. After thicknessing, joint one edge and rip the opposite edge parallel.
Read how to use a jointer safely before operating one, especially if you are new to the machine.
What mistakes lead to poor results?
The most common mistake is planing a twisted board without first flattening or supporting it. The planer can press the twist down temporarily, leaving the board uneven when it exits.
Another mistake is choosing a jointer by cutter width alone. A board can fit the cutter but still be hard to control if it is long and lacks support, so consider table length, extension support, and room around your bench.
Avoid taking off more material than needed. Both jointers described here allow cuts up to 1/8 in per pass, but that is a maximum, not a target for every board.
Check the board after each pass and stop when the reference face or edge is straight.
Should you buy a jointer or planer first?
Buy the machine that solves the stock problem you face most often. Start with a planer if your boards already have one flat face and you mainly need consistent thickness; start with a jointer if you often need to create that face or straighten edges.
If you work with rough lumber, the pair provides a straightforward sequence: joint one face, plane the opposite face, joint one edge, then rip the other edge parallel. If the jointer does not fit your budget or shop, a sled can cover occasional flattening.
Final decision: do I need a jointer if I have a planer?
Choose a jointer if rough, uneven lumber is common and you have room to support boards safely. Keep the planer alone if your wood is already flat or you only need to flatten a few pieces on a well-supported sled.
If sled setup is slowing most projects, the 6-inch WEN suits narrower boards, while the 8-inch WEN offers more cutter width and extendable support. For help choosing the thicknessing machine, see our benchtop planer guide.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a jointer if I have a planer?
You need a jointer when you regularly prepare rough boards that are bowed, cupped, twisted, or have an uneven edge. The jointer creates a flat face or straight edge that can guide later work.
If your stock is already flat, straight, or prepared with a sled, a planer may be enough for thicknessing.
Can a planer flatten a warped board without a jointer?
A planer can flatten a warped board when the board is held flat on a stable planer sled. Without that support, the rollers can press a twist or bow flat during the cut, and the board may spring back afterward.
A sled takes setup time and must support the board securely.
Should I buy a jointer or a planer first?
Choose a planer first if your boards already have one flat face and you mainly need consistent thickness. Choose a jointer first if you often start with rough lumber and need a flat reference face or straight edge.
Many shops use both because they solve different steps.
Can a jointer make a board the same thickness throughout?
A jointer can flatten one face and straighten an edge, but it doesn't make both faces parallel at a chosen thickness. Use the flattened face as the planer reference, then plane the opposite face to bring the board to a consistent thickness.
About this guide: Our look at using a jointer with a thickness planer draws on maker specs, materials and what owners report. See how we research.



